The story
The European cuisine at Gimlet at Cavendish House in Melbourne relies on a central wood-fired oven that dictates the entire menu. Andrew McConnell directs the brigade through a system built around seasonal produce and precise heat management. Guests sit along the counter where chefs pass finished plates directly from the flame. This layout keeps service brisk and removes the distance between the grill and the table.
Grilled lobster arrives dressed with saffron rice, a preparation that highlights the oven’s steady smoke without masking the shellfish. Crustless gnocco fritto appears alongside shaved bresola and aged parmesan for a lighter European-style dish that balances richness with texture. Vegetable focused plates like the zucchini flower and Comté tart follow the same discipline, letting ingredient quality dictate the seasoning. These consistent techniques earned the kitchen a fourteen point rating in the 2026 Australian Good Food Guide.
The wine programme carries equal weight in this European kitchen, anchored by Head Wine Buyer Anthony Pieri. The list spans Tasmanian sparkling cuvées, Yarra Valley Cabernet blends, and grower Champagnes chosen for their structural fit with the menu. Sommeliers like Elisa Perissotto and Michael Dickinson guide guests through lesser known grape varieties while matching bottles to the wooden roasted seafood or rich meat plates. Michael Dickinson frequently recommends Madeira alongside raw oysters, proving how far the cellar extends beyond standard pairings.
Recognition
Ambience
Location
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