SURT

The story

Crafted with passion, served with love

The Pizza

At SURT, in the Carlsbergbyen neighbourhood of Copenhagen, Giuseppe Oliva has built something quietly serious around a large stone oven. The approach is Neapolitan in spirit: sourdough, long fermentation, flour chosen for its rising power, and a restrained hand with toppings — few ingredients, but each one chosen with care. The result is a high, airy crust that emerges from the oven at temperatures between 430 and 450 °C with the characteristic leopard-spotted char that signals proper heat and proper dough. It is sourdough pizza at its most uncompromising.

That commitment has not gone unnoticed. Gambero Rosso awarded SURT its top 3-slice rating in 2025, and the White Guide places it at a very fine level — noting specifically how the flavour nuances in Oliva's sourdough pizzas "make you happy in the mouth." For a pizza-focused address to earn recognition from guides that range across the full breadth of dining, that is a meaningful signal.

The Wine

The wine list at SURT is as considered as the dough. It reads almost entirely as a love letter to Sicily — producers like Viteadovest, Aldo Viola, Alessandro Viola, Sciara, and Eduardo Torres Acosta dominate the pages, with bottles spanning short-maceration whites, long-maceration skin-contact wines, oxidative styles, and reds from the volcanic slopes of Etna. Grapes such as Catarratto, Grillo, Nerello Mascalese, and Perricone appear throughout, alongside older vintages and magnums that suggest a cellar tended with genuine enthusiasm rather than box-ticking.

Beyond Sicily, Nicola Gatta's Franciacorta-style sparkling wines from Lombardia appear, as do a handful of Tuscan and Piedmontese bottles. The dessert selection includes rare passito and oxidative Grillo from Alcamo. It is a list that rewards curiosity and pairs naturally with sourdough pizza that has enough character to stand beside serious wine.

The Place

SURT operates with a bar, a takeaway option, and a wine-bar atmosphere — convivial, unhurried, and rooted in the idea that good pizza and good wine belong together without ceremony. Carlsbergbyen, the former brewery district on the western edge of Copenhagen, gives it room to breathe. The address is unpretentious, the ambition is not.