Esmée

White Guide — Masters level

Youcan wander around and enjoy Kongens Nytorv from the observer’s perspective. Sovino Brands, which houses no fewer than 18 restaurants in central Copenhagen, distinguishes itself by letting some of its venues have their own style. This is especially true of Esmée. With Andreas Bagh (from Marchal) at the stoves and Peter Pepke (from Kong Hans) overseeing the floor—and, not least, the wines—we are guaranteed a quality experience. Since the concept is a highly refined, unpretentious bistro, we need not fear an over‑the‑top offering, unless we choose caviar and rotisserie pighvar served whole on the bone with seafood sauce. In fact, the menu is a revisit, because we can settle for a couple of exceptional snacks: Bagh’s famed truffle‑and‑comté gougères and toasted brioche with gruyère and black‑foot ham. To that, wonderfully refreshing drinks that are light and acidic. We can also indulge in large portions of seafood from high trays, like at La Coupole in Paris, but we choose to combine concepts, resulting in a versatile and irresistibly tasty evening. Among the dishes is whole halibut ceviche, where the robust, half‑fed fish receives the perfect acidic accompaniment of cucumber and chives, with a spicy, well‑balanced acidity and chili pepper—a sure hit to complement a smaller selection of seafood and a parsley‑withering bread. Among the richer dishes, the whole rotisserie poussin with fries and karljohan remoulade stands out as one of the world’s best poultry presentations. Juicy, flavorful, and wonderfully tender‑crisp. A salad with pineapple tomatoes and stone fruits provides the fresh addition that allows a perfectly aged, world‑class cheese before chocolate fondant with pistachio ice cream or a strawberry dessert—both dreaming of a lifetime, letting fullness arrive. Does it sound impossible to pair wine with? No! For Pepke has created another revisit, imposing strict taste standards and assembling a wine list of nearly 90 glasses within a price range starting at 75 kr., with a respectable portion between 100 and 150 kr. None of the restaurant’s talented sommeliers would dream of serving poor wine; instead, they introduce us to producers and vineyards we rarely encounter. Tenuta de Carleone, Il Guercio 2018, sounds like something from a Godfather film, but is pure sangiovese from Tuscany with notes that far exceed most sangiovese we normally drink. Yes, even our initial glass of rosé can withstand the strict scrutiny of rosé critics. Tibouren Clos Cibonne from Provence offers spicy notes and an inviting softness that still retains a subtle umami at the finish. A masterclass‑level delight where quality does not overshadow the relaxed atmosphere.

White Guide — Masters level

From our table, we can take in Kongens Nytorv from the spectator's vantage point. Sovino Brands, which houses no fewer than 18 restaurants in Copenhagen's center, sets itself apart by allowing some of its venues to have their own distinct style. That applies in spades to Esmée. With Andreas Bagh (poached from Marchal) at the stoves and Peter Pepke (poached from Kong Hans) running the floor—and the wines above all—we're guaranteed a quality experience. Since the style is casually excellent bistro, we don't need to worry about sky-high prices either, unless we opt for caviar and spit-roasted monkfish, which arrives whole on the bone with a shellfish sauce. In fact, the menu is a stroke of genius, as we can make do with a couple of top-tier snacks like Bagh's famous gougères with truffle and comté, plus toasted brioche with gruyère and black-footed ham. Paired with wonderfully refreshing drinks that are light and tart. We could also devour platters of seafood straight from high trays like at La Coupole in Paris, but we choose to mix it up for a varied and irresistibly flavorful evening. Among the dishes, the turbot ceviche stands out, where the robust, semi-fat fish gets just the right acidic frame from cucumber and chives, with a spicy, well-dosed hit of acid and chili— a surefire winner to complement a smaller selection of shellfish and parsley butter-drenched bread. Among the heartier options, the whole spit-roasted poussin with fritters and Karl Johan remoulade ranks among the world's best poultry dishes. Juicy, flavorful, and wonderfully tender-crispy. A salad of ananas tomatoes and stone fruits provides the fresh sidekick, making room for some perfectly ripened world-class cheese before the chocolate fondant with pistachio ice cream or the strawberry dessert—dreams we've all harbored our whole lives—brings on the satiety. Sound impossible to pair with wine? No way! Pepke has pulled off another masterstroke, assembling a by-the-glass list with nearly 90 different options in a price range starting at 75 kr., while a good many stay between 100 and 150 kr. None of the venue's skilled sommeliers would dream of serving bad wine; instead, they guide us to producers and vineyards we rarely encounter. Tenuta de Carleone, Il Guercio 2018, sounds like something from a Godfather film, but it's pure Sangiovese from Tuscany with notes that far surpass most Sangiovese you'll drink elsewhere. Yes, even our opening glass of rosé holds up to the strict judgment of rosé critics. Tibouren Clos Cibonne from Provence delivers both spicy notes and a seductive softness, underpinned by something umami-like at the finish. Indulgence at masterclass level, where the quality never overshadows the relaxed vibe.

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