Fútastova

White Guide — Masters level

In the picturesque old customs buildingon the harbor front in Tórshavn’s oldest quarter lies the city’s best restaurant, if you want to eat modern Faroese with an international twist. The first appetizer in the eight‑course menu draws inspiration from several Danish restaurants – fresh lightly salted and sweet sea urchin roe served with lightly sour pickled carrots, crown dill and large caviar eggs with a firm membrane, which, without dominating, refinedly adds notes of hazelnut and umami to the dish. Subsequently, rimmed razor clams are served with delicate shellfish tones and a fine bite on a light bed of fresh pea purée with large fresh summer peas, garnished with dill and crème fraîche – a crisp, low‑fat peppery bacon with subtle smoky notes. The following plate is a wolf in sheep’s clothing. Under a topping of finely sliced field mushrooms garnished with red acid and dill, a Faroese rimmed salmon in beet juice with a beautiful flesh structure rises in a layer of lightly acidic buttermilk, with pea purée and a lightly caramelized onion flavor from the shallot and fat from dill oil. Paired with a well‑matched golden Trimbach Pinot Blanc 2017, an elegant wine with a fine body, notes of pear and lime on the nose and an exotic hint of apricot, and a good balance between fruit and acidity. The next dish, steamed cod with mushroom broth topped with finely sliced mushrooms, is simple, but the cod simply exudes an almost mineral purity of flavor. The fish is caught in the fjord right by the harbor in the morning, cleaned at midday and arrives on your plate in the evening. The flesh falls apart, has plenty of bite, and the cod tastes great throughout. The fish soup with small‑cut vegetables and ramsons oil is also successful. The next course is a surprisingly airy potato mash with cheese, served with a delicate poached egg, toasted buckwheat, which adds a pleasant nutty flavor and crunch, and grated truffle. This understated, lightly subtle, fragrant, peppery and almost garlic‑like mushroom usually smells more than it tastes, so it is in fine company with the potato mash and egg, which allow it to shine through. You won’t go home hungry! The next dish is a thick‑cut, dark, entrecote with a fine fat edge and marbling. It has rested before serving, so the grilled steak is juicy and has a beautiful umami character in the meat flavor. The meat is served with a variety of onions – onion purée, deep‑fried onions and pickled onions – as well as fresh chanterelles and is finished with a light sweet Madeira sauce. The lovely meal is rounded off with a buttermilk mousse topped with raspberry sorbet, fresh raspberries, peach, mint, white chocolate and a star‑anise cream. All servings are arranged as small works of art with attention to detail and flavor – also in the wine pairing. Combined with the excellent view, skilled service and pleasant atmosphere, Fútastova becomes a master‑class restaurant in the smallest capital in the North.

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