L'Express

The story

Crafted with passion, served with love

A New York Institution Since 1996

At the intersection of Gramercy Park, Park Avenue South, and Union Square, L'Express has been one of Manhattan's most reliable French restaurants for over a quarter-century. Modeled on a Lyonnaise bouchon — the no-fuss, convivial bistros that Lyon is famous for — it operates on a distinctly New York schedule: breakfast from 8am, lunch, dinner, and a full late-night menu that made it, by its own account, the city's original late-night destination in Gramercy.

The Kitchen and the Team

Executive Chef Amitzur Mor brings an unusually broad pedigree to the stoves. Originally from Israel, he trained at Tadmor Culinary School before coming to New York to work under David Bouley, François Payard, Elizabeth Falkner, and Tom Colicchio — with time at Bouley, Gramercy Tavern, and Payard along the way. Most mornings he can be found at the local market sourcing meats, fish, and produce for the day's service. The result is French cuisine that respects its classical roots while allowing for a modern touch.

Beverage Director and Partner Aviram Turgeman oversees a wine list that earned L'Express a Wine Spectator Award of Excellence — recognition that speaks to the seriousness with which the program is curated. Turgeman holds the WSET Diploma in Wine and Spirits and has been a member of the American Sommelier Association since 2003; his approach is to find something that pairs well with every item on the menu, regardless of price point. General Manager Thor Oren, a New York native who came to hospitality through a background in design and bartending, rounds out a leadership team with deep roots in the city's dining scene.

What to Eat

The menu covers the full arc of a French bistro day. Morning brings a croissant basket with assorted pastries, Brioche French Toast with mixed berries and crème chantilly, classic Eggs Benedict, and the Omelette Parisienne with smoked ham, gruyère, and mushroom. Through the afternoon, Escargots de Bourgogne, a Housemade Country Terrine of duck and pork with pistachios, and Hand-Cut Beef Tartare anchor the starters. Moules-Frites arrive in a white wine, thyme, garlic, and leek broth; Steak Frites features a 14oz NY strip with pommes frites. A cheese plate of triple cream brie, Danish blue, aged comté, and caña de cabra closes things out properly.

Late nights bring the same complete menu to a fully stocked bar — a rare offer in a neighborhood that tends to go quiet early.