Fernery

A lovely prospect in an entrancing bucolic setting, The Grove at Narberth not only does fine dining admirably but also caters for those seeking a simpler, more relaxed experience. Indeed, if you’re staying for a day or two, the Artisan Rooms offers ‘a perfect balance of comfort and creativity,’ as well as a change of pace from the main event of dining in the flagship Fernery. Reached via a charming maze of public rooms (rugs, fireplaces, old settles, voluptuous sofas and plenty of Welsh arts and crafts), it is all about laid-back chic with an artisan, rustic edge in the form of gorgeous old pottery and patchwork finds. The menu offers something for everyone, from fishcakes, upmarket burgers and beef shin with creamed potatoes and hispi cabbage to more sophisticated offerings along the lines of sea bream with cucumber, watermelon and chilli or lamb shoulder dressed with chimichurri and accompanied by charcoal mash. Desserts exhibit similar scope – you could plump for the hearty comforts of rice pudding laced with rum and pineapple or go for the swankier chocolate-encased, gold-spangled chocolate gâteau with pistachio and cherries. It’s all very easy-going and enjoyable. There’s also the pleasure of ‘thoughtfully crafted’ Sunday roasts and a sophisticated wine list with plentiful options by the glass.

Grove of Narberth is in a remarkable location – a glorious, whitewashed country house of various vintages, surrounded by gardens that are 'a riot of colour in spring and summer' with ancient oaks and verdant, tree-lined fields. The interior delivers all the hoped-for modern country house glamour: an abundance of comfy sofas, chic decor, polished service. All of this comes together in The Fernery, a smart, white tableclothed affair, candlelit in the evenings, with the focus on local, seasonal ingredients and global flavours. On the eight-course tasting menu, smoked potato could be teamed with dashi, asparagus and bottarga, while succulent beef cosies up with fermented shiitake, alliums and potato. Squab pigeon is paired with celeriac, cherry and nasturtium, and native Black Bomber Cheddar is matched with apple, carrot and a fresh blast of coriander. Herbs are put to good use here – note a dessert of macadamia nuts with rhubarb, mascarpone and sweet marjoram – and much of what’s on the menu comes straight from the hotel’s own kitchen gardens. The extensive wine list is backed by an expert sommelier, so expect solid guidance through choices that extend from native Welsh finds to classics from the New and Old Worlds, including Billecart-Salmon Champagnes and plenty of sustainable, organic options (many of them available by the glass).

4 Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence