The story
Chef Anthony Demetre’s Wild Honey St James occupies the elegant, Grade II listed rooms of a Neoclassical building on Pall Mall, in the heart of London’s West End. The setting is grand, but the spirit is warm and relaxed—exactly as Demetre intends. After 12 years leading the original Wild Honey in Mayfair, he relocated the restaurant here in the spring of 2019, and it has held a Michelin star since 2022, a recognition it retains today.
Demetre’s path to this kitchen was not conventional. A knee injury cut short his career in the Royal Navy, leading him to train with Gary Rhodes and Bruno Loubet before earning his first Michelin star at Putney Bridge in 1999. He later co-founded the influential Soho bistro Arbutus and opened the original Wild Honey in Mayfair, which earned a star in its first year. His cooking draws from extensive travels across Europe, combining classical French technique with a deep respect for British produce.
The kitchen is built on refined technique and a commitment to sustainability. Each morning, Demetre crafts the menu based on the exceptional seasonal ingredients delivered by trusted UK farmers and suppliers. The à la carte and pre-theatre menus change daily, reflecting the natural rhythm of the season. The food is precise and generous, letting the quality of the ingredients speak. Standout dishes that have become signatures include the classic British dessert “It has to be Custard” and the Wild Honey ice cream, served with warm honey and lemon Madeleines.
The wine list is curated with the same care as the ingredients, featuring exceptional bottles from producers the team respects. A wine pairing is available, either booked in advance or chosen on the night.
Wild Honey St James is a restaurant that values clarity and warmth. Demetre’s philosophy is one of respect and integrity—for the produce, the producers, and the guests. The setting may be grand, but the experience is unmistakably personal, a reflection of a chef who has spent decades perfecting his craft. For those seeking a refined yet approachable evening in London, this is a destination that delivers on its promise.
Recognition
Ambience
Details
History
High quality cooking
Modernist lighting, high-toned detailing and lots of elegant curves – the former bar area of Wild Honey makes a suitably swanky backdrop for Anthony Demetre's more informal spin-off and is ‘a lovely space to pop in for a drink or a longer meal’. Arguably, the biggest draw is the bargain prix-fixe of just two choices at each course, offered from noon to 6.30pm, but the much pricier carte is vital and seasonal, filled with enticing and irresistible dishes. The menu makes no bones about its Francophilia, but there are modern touches along the way and the quality of the produce is outstanding. You can, of course, opt for just a burger with fries or merguez sausages with lyonnaise potatoes, but should three courses beckon, a salad of autumn leaves with pear, walnut and soft cheese dressing is deliciously new wave, while pork, chicken and duck terrine ‘en croûte’ is a typically classic opener. The standout at our lunch was rabbit à la moutarde, fall-apart meat simmered in white wine and mustard, with a side of crushed charlotte potatoes in spiced brown butter – though we found similar contentment in a dessert of light, creamy tiramisu. Staff are admirably well versed in the niceties of their trade and there’s a serious dedication to the drinks side of things, from perfect Negronis to an exemplary choice of wines by the glass. And if you decide to drop by between 5pm and 7pm (aka ‘cinq à sept’), you can order a glass of the day’s red or white with a choice of ham or cheese croquettes for £11.
As dining rooms go there can be few more striking than this dramatic double-height space on the ground floor of the Sofitel St James Hotel. It's very grand, in a famous Parisian brasserie kind of way – a smart, polished environment that caters for a well-heeled crowd. Anthony Demetre remains a hands-on presence and a key part in the friendly, welcoming atmosphere that keeps guests coming back for more. His kitchen continues to turn out a mix of French classics with gentle modern touches and a fierce adherence to the seasons. Wild mushroom tart served with a fricassée of wild mushrooms and hazelnut sabayon, or crispy chicken with hand-cut macaroni and black winter truffles, typify the fresh, lively flavours that could be followed, perhaps, by fallow deer and slow-cooked celeriac with walnut and cocoa, kumquat marmalade and a grand veneur sauce. Finish with the signature wild-honey ice cream served with Bermondsey raw honeycomb, warm honey and lemon madeleine, though for some reporters, the sweet comfort of a classic custard tart can’t be beaten. The set lunch and pre-theatre menu is splendid value. There’s a serious dedication to drinks, too, with well-tailored cocktails and a wine list that takes in a sweeping global shuffle, lingering longest in France.
3 Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence
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