The story
Home by James Sommerin in Cardiff approaches Modern British cuisine through generations of shared practice. James trained in Wales and Scotland before earning his first Michelin star at The Crown at Whitebrook. He reopened the venture in Penarth Town after his previous seaside location closed during the pandemic, bringing his daughter Georgia onto the stove.
The menu rotates every five weeks to follow seasonal peaks rather than fixed recipes. Georgia Sommerin leads the pastry section while chef Ollie O’Toole sources heavy turbot, hand-dived Orkney scallops, and Isle of Wight tomatoes. This dedication to straightforward ingredients recently earned the kitchen its AA Four Rosette recognition.
Thick velvet curtains separate the dining room from the street, creating an enclosed space designed for conversation. James describes the environment as a place where diners can remove their shoes and relax completely. The low lighting and intimate layout encourage staff to learn individual preferences over multiple visits.
Recognition
Ambience
Details
History
High quality cooking
Shielded from the street by floor-to-ceiling curtains (press the doorbell to enter), James Sommerin’s latest venture is darkly dramatic with the deepest slate grey walls, seven linen-clad tables and retro wood panelling lending ‘a bewitching 1960s recording studio vibe’. The centrepiece is the broad open kitchen, lit like a Hopper painting, and creating a hypnotic and beautiful piece of live theatre backed by a luscious dreampop soundtrack. James Sommerin and his daughter Georgia are essentially the whole kitchen team, and sometimes bring out dishes from their no-choice, eight-course surprise menu (the printed version is presented at the end of the meal), though there’s an excellent, warmly assured front-of-house presence, too. Sommerin has always impressed, but it’s clear that he has raised the bar considerably here. There’s magic in every detail, from the dazzling amuse- bouches – a gougère made with Parmesan ‘light, crisp, and intense’, and an eggshell filled with silken parsnip espuma topped with a golden, crispy shard of chicken skin – right down to the dense, crusty wholemeal and laverbread loaf made with local beer and served with cultured seaweed butter. Some highlights at inspection included Jersey Royals cooked in home-smoked butter to intensify their flavour, served with tarragon emulsion and a dressing of smoked butter-rendered pork, snappy pork crackling and Parmesan and sage crumb, and a signature dish of perfect liquid pea ravioli with crispy sage and serrano ham, finished with Parmesan emulsion – a creation that ‘totally deserves its star spot’. A main act of corn-fed chicken breast accompanied by potato and olive oil purée, Carmarthen ham, broad beans, globe artichoke and Madeira sauce was equally flawless, while desserts took a playful tack with treats including honey and chamomile custard with strawberry sorbet, tarragon and delectable warm doughnuts. But for sheer theatre, nothing could trump the passion fruit ice cream on a stick – dipped in liquid nitrogen, then dunked in chocolate at the table and finally sprinkled with granola and topped with thick, sticky toffee sauce. The wine list is lengthy, global and full of interest, with high-end selections by the glass as well as more accessible options.
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