META

High quality cooking

In October 2025, Meta relocated from the Glaspalast Mantegazza in Paradiso to the central Piazza Riforma, taking over the former Federale. A brasserie is being established on the ground floor, while the next chapter of Meta unfolds on one of the upper levels. The ambitions remain just as high. Chef Arturo Fragnito, who is still largely unknown and succeeds star chef Luca Bellanca, describes his goal this way: "I want to turn every dish into an experience, an encounter between authentic flavors and new perspectives, leaving behind a memory that transcends mere taste." Thus, a farewell performance at the old Meta in Paradiso. Kicking off the Med Fusion menu is a ricciola (amberjack) prepared in leche de tigre, following the Peruvian tradition. This is followed by a scallop paired with Pata Negra ham and vin jaune—a bold and successful combination. Next comes the menu’s highlight: ravioli stuffed with charcoal-grilled lamb, accented with a hint of green curry and fresh mango—a sophisticated interplay of earthy smoke, spice, and fruity lightness. The Glacier 51, a black sea bass from distant waters, receives an exciting twist: white asparagus, Oscietra caviar, and wild garlic! The meat course is equally impressive: a tenderly cooked duck served with cherries and red onion marmalade. To conclude, two refreshing desserts: citrus with pink peppercorns, and yogurt with strawberries and rhubarb—perfectly balanced in flavor and artfully shaped like a flower. Chef Arturo Fragnito made an excellent impression during the GaultMillau visit. His major test at the Piazza Riforma location still lies ahead. Expectations within the Mantegazza family are high. Story to be continued.