Stucki

Excellent cooking

Peak moments, pure cinematic spectacle! On a tropical night, Tanja Grandits welcomes guests outside on the spacious terrace, quickly captivating them. She personally serves the amuse-bouche at every table with a friendly smile, and you rub your eyes in disbelief: It’s incredible what the petite, energetic owner can coax out of a cucumber alongside her young team. She pairs it sometimes with basil and capers, other times with almonds, anise, and wasabi, and again with mint and ginger. A green-themed welcome, three variations of summer freshness served as finger food—and a first hint of the kitchen’s caliber; how skillfully the “Stucki” crew balances the heat of the wasabi is already quite impressive. Then it’s showtime, with Tanja’s right-hand man, Marco Böhler, taking center stage. He proudly presents, literally on a silver platter, a four-kilogram glittering Japanese yellowtail amberjack flown in from Kagoshima: Hamachi! Four specimens rest in the cooler, are briefly cured, then sliced into thin—but not too thin—portions. They receive Tanja’s monochrome styling: yuzu, ponzu, sesame, fennel—a symphony in sunny yellow. The ingredients are used very sparingly, keeping the fish firmly in the spotlight. We note with admiration: our Hamachi of the year! Tanja Grandits and Marco Böhler don’t beat to the same drum; their personal preferences couldn’t be more different. Yet they come together in an admirable way, and the guest is the beneficiary. For example, the owner is (rightfully) very proud of her green bean dish, saying: “Beans, elderflower, labneh, hazelnut gremolata—that’s enough.” Not enough, thinks Böhler, and thoughtfully adds an elegant, not-too-fatty slice of Wagyu for the carnivores. The next handpicked luxury product follows immediately: Carabinero prawns from Sicily, top quality class: “Fewer than ten pieces per kilo,” explains Böhler, revealing a deep-red giant specimen on ice. Preparation? Grill the noble crayfish, then plunge it into an impressively gently dosed lemongrass soup. That made it hard for the pan-seared zander in the next round, even though the pistachio beurre blanc and bay leaf lettuce paired beautifully with it. Then comes the next “pas de deux” between the two chefs: Tanja puts her own creative spin on her beloved cauliflower, while Marco opens the large tin of caviar. He has returned with a touch of regret to his regular supplier, “Royal Belgian,” placing a generous portion of 18-year-old, large-grain Beluga caviar on the plate. The almond hollandaise complements both the cauliflower and the caviar. Böhler is a passionate hunter. So the main course features summer venison from the Black Forest, hunted at Pentecost “in the last light of day,” just before dusk. We’re at the “Stucki,” so naturally it doesn’t stop at a simple, noble, and perfectly roasted venison loin. There’s still a little tower on the plate: liver, kidney, heart, and shoulder tip (slow-cooked for three hours) from the fattened beast! The owner wouldn’t eat it herself, but she does contribute her signature “Tanja tuning”: long pepper lacquer and shiso from her own garden for the dumplings. The finale comes from the house’s cellar: elegant desserts and sweet confections by master pastry chef Julien Duvernay. Raspberries with wasabi sorbet, furikake (Japanese spice blend), and yogurt mousse; apricot with basil mousse and buckwheat brittle. Part of the “Stucki” success lies with the attentive female service staff, who perform their duties with smiles, elegance, and expertise. Two professionals look after the wine cellar: Grégory Rohmer and Paul Fröhling. They pour without pretension and with relaxed ease, staying fully abreast of what’s currently trending in the scene. A bold pairing for the venison: 2022 Le Vin de l’A, a Cornalin from Valais by Alex Stauffer, GaultMillau’s “Rookie of the Year.” P.S.: Tanja Grandits now has a branch location. The “key” is in Oberwil BL. Bistro-style cuisine, “Stucki” flair, with an experienced “Stucki” chef behind the stove (Marten Harder). See page 351!