The story
Calling your restaurant Étoile — French for star — takes a certain nerve. At Norra Stationsgatan 51, just by Norrtull, that confidence is entirely earned. Behind the project are Falkeman and Lagerström, a duo whose guiding philosophy might be summarised as: fun ingredients and flavours from all over the world, prepared and presented just as we please. In an era preoccupied with certifications and hyper-local produce, Etoile is, by its own admission, gastronomically incorrect. Almost anarchist, in fact.
There are no choices to make at Etoile — no à la carte, no negotiation. A single set menu of exactly twenty courses unfolds over approximately four hours, each dish designed to hold your attention for around twelve minutes. The team is composed entirely of chefs who begin each day together, selecting products, cooking side by side, and preparing for an evening that moves guests through the kitchen, the dining room, and finally a sweet lounge.
The White Guide, which awarded Etoile its Masters level recognition in 2026, described the experience in vivid detail: an Afternoon Tea Party of mushroom and onion broth served in a sweets tin; Beef and liquorice paired with German-Russian caviar; a Fish'n'chips of smoked halibut and pickled Jerusalem artichoke; a Maki of yuzu, soy and cedar-roasted zander from Lake Hjälmaren wrapped in banana leaves; and Charcoal — veal sweetbread with black curry and tempura batter with burnt coconut. There is also a copper-coloured dish called CU 29, something called Fresh Air, and an ice lolly that tastes unmistakably of Thai soup.
Desserts lean on apples and blueberries. The drinks package — well-matched to the menu and tending toward natural wine — moves from Austrian riesling and Loire chenin blanc through American chardonnay and an Argentinian criolla, with sake and pinot meunier champagne woven in between. Non-alcoholic options are mixed at the table with the same seriousness: think a teetotal Old Fashioned, smoky and carroty, finished with a maraschino cherry.
The atmosphere is deliberately home-like and without ceremony, which makes the ambition of the kitchen all the more striking. Etoile has held a Michelin Star continuously since 2020, alongside a Michelin Green Star — recognition that sits alongside the White Guide's Masters level nod as a measure of just how seriously this self-described anarchist kitchen is taken. Most dishes involve intriguing techniques and an element of dining-room theatre, so the evening is as entertaining as it is delicious. When you step back out into the traffic by Norrtull, feeling slightly dazed, that is very much the intended effect.
Recognition
Location