The story
The Dicksonska Palatset was completed in 1862 as a private residence for Oscar Dickson, designed by British architect William Allen Boulnois. For decades after the City of Gothenburg acquired it, the building remained largely closed to the public. Following extensive restoration, it now houses Umarell — an Italian restaurant and bar on the ground floor, steps from Avenyn, that has quickly become one of the city's most talked-about addresses.
The name itself sets the tone. Umarell is an Italian expression for an elderly man who stops at a construction site, hands clasped behind his back, and watches with quiet curiosity. It's a playful nod to everyone who followed the palace's long renovation — and an invitation to do the same inside, taking in the details of a space where history and warmth coexist without effort.
The restaurant is the creation of chef Louise Johansson and restaurateur Oliver Ingrosso. Johansson won the first season of Sweden's MasterChef in 2011, went on to cook at Upper House, vRÅ, and Salt & Sill, and was a finalist for Chef of the Year in 2019 and 2021 before winning Chef's Challenge in 2022. Umarell is her first restaurant of her own, and her cooking philosophy — rooted in the west coast, shaped by the sea, vegetables, and seasonal produce — gives the Italian kitchen here a distinct personal voice.
Ingrosso brings the Italian side of the equation. Since 2022 he has owned the Italian restaurant Olli in Stockholm, and was born and raised in the world of Italian cuisine. Together, the two have built something that feels both authoritative and genuinely welcoming.
The menu is deliberately concise — a focused selection that lets carefully chosen ingredients speak for themselves. White Guide, which awarded Umarell a Fine level distinction for 2026, singled out the fried artichoke and a Hiramasa crudo among the starters, and a fusillone pasta with pesto and extra pancetta as a main — dishes that are straightforward in ambition and precise in execution. The drinks list matches the kitchen's confidence: cocktails that are classic yet inventive, and a wine list with strong Italian depth alongside solid representation from the rest of the world.
The many smaller rooms within the palace give each table its own sense of intimacy without any group feeling overlooked. White Guide described the service as impeccable — appearing exactly when needed, never before. For larger gatherings, the Chambre Séparée offers a private setting with a dedicated sharing menu that moves through charcuterie, seasonal starters, pasta, meat, and dessert.
Louise and Oliver's stated ambition is simple and direct: "You should feel just as welcome dropping in for something casual as you would on a special date or when there's something truly worth celebrating. Genuine Italian food — so good it almost knocks you off your chair, and makes you want to come back the very next day." On the evidence so far, Göteborg has taken them at their word.
Recognition
Ambience