The story
Ryan Devlin, son of Chris Devlin, took ownership of the family business in October 2020 — but he had been working toward that moment his entire life. He is the fifth generation to operate from the same location on Mount Pleasant Road, a fact that gives Devlin's Country Bistro a depth of roots unusual even by Ontario standards. A blog post on the restaurant's own site marks 35 years of operation, a milestone that speaks for itself.
The building is 190 years old, and the recently updated interior leans into that history rather than erasing it. Live-edge tables sit alongside the original architecture, and each room carries its own character — the kind of quiet individuality that comes from a structure that has actually lived through something.
The menu reads like a confident cook who travels widely and sources locally. Steakhouse instincts run through the large plates section: wood-grilled cuts supplied by the Heleniak Family in Norwich, Ontario — antibiotic- and hormone-free, Ontario corn-fed beef — anchor the evening. Options range from a 6 oz AAA Filet Mignon (21-day wet aged) to a 14 oz Prime Ribeye aged 45-plus days, alongside cast-iron seared Wagyu from Rolling Hills in Burgesville, Ontario, and A5 Striploin from Japan.
Beyond the steakhouse core, the kitchen moves freely. Small plates include Casumpec Bay oysters served two ways, French Onion Escargot in a puff pastry vol-au-vent, and a Brazilian Pastel filled with Iberico pork and mozzarella. Large plates bring Miso-Glazed Black Cod, a Red Wine–Braised Beef Short Rib with truffled mashed potatoes, Kentucky Fried Rabbit on a jalapeño cornbread waffle, and a Duck Duo pairing confit with seared King Cole breast. For those who want the kitchen to lead entirely, a Chef's Family-Style Tasting at $100 per guest offers a seasonally inspired multi-course experience.
Dietary accommodations are taken seriously: most dishes can be adapted to gluten-free or nut-free, and the menu is clearly marked throughout.
The wine program earned a Wine Spectator Award of Excellence in 2024 — recognition that reflects genuine curation rather than a large-volume list. OpenTable named it a Notable Wine List in both 2023 and 2024. A recently launched Wine Club brings selections from the cellar directly to members, and wine pairing is woven naturally into the dining experience.
Catering is the other pillar of what Devlin's does, and Ryan's team handles over 200 weddings a year across Ontario. A fleet of fully refrigerated and kitchen-equipped trucks means everything is cooked fresh on site — a meaningful distinction from drop-and-go operations. The same Californian-inflected, steakhouse-rooted sensibility that defines the bistro menu travels with them.
Recognition
Ambience
Location