The story
First documented in 1326 alongside the construction of the local church — recorded then as Die Taverne zu St. Leonhard — Der Kirchenwirt is the oldest inn in the Salzburger Land and one of Austria's most remarkable dining addresses. It stood on the medieval transit route between Tirol and Salzburg, offering shelter to travellers, miners, and pilgrims. The massive stone walls, vaulted rooms, and a landmark Gothic Samerstall (a protected historical stable) have absorbed those centuries quietly, and today they form the backdrop for something altogether more refined.
The property has been in the Unterrainer family for around 150 years. The sixth generation — siblings Barbara Kottke and Hans-Jörg Unterrainer — runs the house with what they describe simply as a desire to give space and room back to the stories that have accumulated over seven hundred years. The result is a place where original fabric and contemporary design coexist without tension: individually themed rooms that each tell their own story, a candlelit wine cellar, a romantically planted garden terrace with views across the Leoganger Steinberge, and a wood-panelled wedding hall that has hosted generations of celebrations.
The Gourmetwirtshaus — the fine-dining heart of the complex — has earned recognition from Michelin, Gault Millau (4 Hauben), and Falstaff (4 Gabeln), placing it firmly among the leading gourmet addresses in the Alps. The kitchen's guiding philosophy is Alpine Küche: Austrian cuisine rooted in the products, recipes, and traditions of the entire Alpine arc, interpreted with craft rather than spectacle. Head chef Stefan Birnbacher leads the kitchen, while Hans-Jörg Unterrainer — a former professional snowboarder and Olympic participant who channelled his knowledge of terrain, soil, and microclimate into wine — oversees one of the most celebrated cellars in the region.
That cellar is no afterthought. Wine Spectator awarded the Kirchenwirt its Best of Award of Excellence, a distinction that reflects both the depth of the collection and the seriousness with which it is curated. Unterrainer has also been honoured with the JRE Sommelier Award — one of the most sought-after distinctions in the European sommelier world, given only every two years — and has mentored eighteen young sommeliers through their diploma training. The wine programme is integral to the Austrian cuisine experience here, not an accompaniment to it.
Reservations are strongly recommended — seating in the historic Stuben is deliberately limited. The gourmet restaurant opens for dinner from 17:00, with a lighter Wirtshauskarte available from 14:00. The house also offers exclusive private bookings of individual rooms, including the Habsburgerstube, the Kaminstube, and the wine cellar itself — spaces that make the history of the place genuinely tangible.
Recognition
Ambience
Location